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By Nathan Burgess

Sparkling platinum. Shimmering gold. The immortal diamond.

Crafted by artisans, coveted by dreamers and celebrated for a lifetime, an engagement ring is the physical incarnation of the betrothal promise.But, like anything, wedding jewelry is subject to the moment. The popular rings of today don’t always match your grandmother’s 1930 Tiffany & Co.Today’s rings may be personal, practical, or retro. They come in all materials, from posh platinum to sturdy tungsten. They can hold up to an active, modern lifestyle, or recall the Victorian sense of cluttered elegance.

"The spectrum is wide," says Mary Jane Magnan, owner of Richard J. Wobby jewelers in Barre.Platinum is the material of the moment for people who can afford it, said Perry Sporn, owner of Perrywinkles Fine Jewelry stores in Vermont, New York and Massachusetts.

"People always buy platinum if it’s in the budget," he said, "because it’s working with pure metal. It’s denser and harder to work with, but it lasts a lifetime. It’s the No. 1 choice."

Sporn said platinum is going for a lot less these days than it used to - for a reason you might not expect. "What people don’t realize," he said, "is that when the auto industry collapsed, the price of platinum dropped in half, because it’s used in catalytic converters. Since auto sales dropped, platinum has been a lot more affordable."

Yellow gold, once a classic choice, is on the outs right now, said Barry Tricker, manager of Stowe Gems Fine Jewelry in Stowe.

"Ninety-eight percent of people don’t even look at yellow gold," Tricker said. "They’re looking at white gold (which contains other alloys). That’s different from 10 years ago."

Magnan disagrees: "Gold is still what we sell the most of," she said. "It’s a classic that’s been around forever. It’s the first thing people look for."

Today’s budget-conscious couples usually splurge on platinum or gold for the bride’s ring and band, and opt for cheaper tungsten or titanium for the groom.
"Couples tend to think jewelry is generally more important for the woman," Sporn said. "If they’re on a fixed budget for the entire wedding, they tend to spend more money on the women’s ring. Men usually get titanium and tungsten (bands) cause it’s a little more masculine looking, it can take a beating - and they can put more money toward the wedding."

Lifestyle also plays a big role in the design of today’s rings.

Tricker said a lot of active buyers go for a ring with the diamond set flush with the metal.

"It’s the most durable, and it has a nice look," he said. "It’s partly popular with people in this area ’cause they tend to be very active skiers and snowboarders and rock climbers, and they want something low-maintenance. If you buy on style, you have to really pay attention to finding a ring that will meld with your lifestyle."

Though diamond rings remain big sellers, couples trending toward the nontraditional are also looking into other gems.

"Sapphire is second only to diamonds," Tricker said. "I think sapphire is really underappreciated as an engagement ring."

Rubies and emeralds are also on people’s radar, he said, but because they’re softer than diamonds, durability is a concern.

Not all couples opt for modern rings; there’s high demand for vintage rings and estate jewelry.

"Vintage 1920s is in," said Ali Stockman, manager at Ferro Jewelers in Stowe.

Rings from the Art Deco period of design, between the 1920s and 1940s, are big sellers at Ferro."People like to see the history; they like to know the story behind the ring," said Bryan Ferro, who owns both Ferro locations in Stowe and Woodstock.

Sporn said custom rings are also in - everything from etched symbols and scenery around the band to more exotic requests.

"We even had someone ask us to replicate the view out their window, to duplicate it off a photo," he said. Whatever the case, jewelers say today’s ring buyers are letting their fantasies run wild.

"We see people getting very creative, and we love it," Sporn said.